We also headed to Devil’s Golf Course, where a not so ancient lake bed now forms salt crystals in ankle twisting shapes. From there we proceeded to Badwater – elevation 280 feet below sea level and within a few miles of the lowest point in the U.S. at 282 feet. We took the obligatory picture. Actually – we had some French people take the picture for us, so it may turn out to have an outrageous accent. Much to Nadya’s delight, when Jim offered to take a photo of a couple at Badwater, they turned out to be French - so Nadya got to speak to them about cheese omelettes and chapeaus. They reciprocated by complimenting her French, photoing us back and discussing their aunt’s pen.

On the loop back we saw old borax works – not very exciting actually. More amazing was Tule Spring – there is water in Death Valley. We ended the jaunt by stopping at the visitor center again and buying a book about the geology of Death Valley. What we’ve learned so far is some rocks are very old and some aren’t. A lot of them are tilted and the whole valley is tipping eastward. The pretty colors seem to just be a bonus.

Day 2

Weather only improving, says Jim. Nadya likes 80 better than 90. Still, it’s well below normal for this time of year, so we’re happy!

We started the day with an early (6 am) breakfast and a drive out to the racetrack – home of the mysteriously moving rocks. On the way there we found a big hole in the ground: Ubehebe Crater. It was formed when magma boiled up into underground water, resulting in superheated steam and a big boom. It’s a big hole.

While driving the last few miles, the only car on a thirty mile road through high desert canyons, we admired an F15 banking over the playa. Apparently the pilot admired us too, because the next thing we knew, Jim was saying “get ready” and the plane was three hundred feet above us – a straight overhead flyby. Then he was gone, zipping sideways into the canyon ahead – just like in the movies! The flyby was probably an unauthorized training maneuver, but a great thrill for us – the thunder and the unmistakable “CRACK” as the plane passed over. We’re glad our tax dollars are being spent on cool stuff!

Finally at the racetrack, we hunted rocks, found same. Very cool! They leave little tracks behind them on the cracked clay playa and no one is quite sure how or why. Maybe it’s aliens!

After a lunch amidst Joshua Trees and blooming cacti (this drive was the first time we’d actually seen cactus after three days in the desert!), we headed up for a quick walk through Mosaic Canyon. The park guide said “polished marble walls” and it wasn’t joking – we were amazed to find ourselves in a narrow canyon of marble walls – like nothing we’d ever seen.

And of course, a trip below sea level requires that Jim have the ceremonial Ice Cream treat. He started this at the Dead Sea and it couldn’t be good to break a tradition started in the Holy Land, now could it? That was fun. Unfortunately we pushed our luck at dinner by sharing the world’s largest brownie sundae – even two valiant travelers couldn’t eat it all!

The waitress that night was fun – she asked us “What are you two – are you friends, or a couple or something?” We didn’t tell her that we’re just forced to travel together because we only have one brain. She’s newly married herself – for 11 years she worked at Death Valley for 7 months and then traveled for 5. She got back from Thailand with only $3 to her name. Now she’s married and lives here year round. “How do you deal with the summer heat?” we asked. “Oh, I just stay inside once it’s over 120,” she replied.

Day 3

Our main adventure today was a trip along a four wheel drive road through Titus Canyon. We drove to Beatty for breakfast at the casino. Nadya started the drive out towards the canyon and Jim gave her 4X4 driving lessons. Then he told her to stop because of the large big horn sheep in the road ahead! Seven sheep in all crossed the road, stopping to stare at us, but not seeming to be worried by our presence. This brings our mammal watch to 4: Bats (which you can see every evening at the hotel), desert rats, chipmunks (we think) and now Big Horn Sheep!

The canyon itself was worth the trip as well – great rock formations and colors. The drive also took us past Leadfield. The Leadfield post office opened in August, 1926 and closed in February, 1927. 300 people moved here expecting gold and silver – but they were duped by the promoter’s hype. Whoops!

After a long hot day, Nadya took those toes back to pool and found a great spot in the shade to read. The pool is just fabulous – a nice size and fed by natural springs – there’s no chlorine and the water is about 85 degrees. She never wants to leave here!

Day 4

This is our “at sea” day. Jim got up at five to photograph the sunrise from Zabriskie point. Afterwards, we headed out the Furnace Creek Golf Course (the lowest green grass golf course in the world at 214 feet below sea level) and hit a bucket on the driving range. Golf is still hard.

Returned for more swimming (Nadya), web page creating (Jim & Nadya). Our beer stock is running low. Egads!